Thursday, March 12, 2009

The Return of the Sauerkraut


Finally time to write again! It's a full-blown blizzard here, so there is no chance of going up any mountains for skiing because a) you can't see much b) the danger of avalanches is very real c) it's too good to be home.

My sauerkraut went into the final stage of resting about 10 days ago, and is now ready ready for consumption. I pushed things a bit longer than normal, out of curiosity, to see where it would end. Well, the cabbage got very sour, but tastes fantastic. I really like sauerkraut. I make a batch 2-3 times a year and keep in my fridge. It's very nice with home made rustic sausage and other salty meats (yeah, griseknoke and sauerkraut will make your head explode). It's also fantastic in soups, both as an acidifier and for taste. Any proper borscht (beetroot soup) would feature sauerkraut, in addition to pork stock, beet juice, shredded beetroot and salt pork knuckle or unsmoked bacon. Serve with parsley and sour cream on a cold day, and your heart will warm. Promise.

Anyway, back to the sauerkraut. Fermented foods are fascinating. You herd an invisible population of bacteria and fungi under the right conditions, and they will turn an in itself not so interesting ingredient into a complex and marvellous delicacy! And in addition, they will prevent it from spoiling. They are a mans best friend, not dogs. A good example of an ingredient which becomes much more flavourful and interesting when fermented are the small summer cucumbers. Agreed, they are fantastic when fresh, but when wrapped in blackcurrant leaves and fermented in a 2 % brine for 2-3 weeks with lots of garlic, a bit of parsnips and a bit of horse radish, you get something of a totally different dimension. Miraculous is the word. Even though cabbage can't quite match it's cucumber counterpart, it's well worth the trouble.

Sauerkraut

1 medium head of white cabbage, the outer green leaves discarded
1 small carrot
2-3 cloves garlic
cumin seeds
salt

Quarter the cabbage, discard the stem, and slice very, very thinly. A mandoline comes in handy here. Weigh the cabbage, divide by hundred, and add that amount of salt (approx. 1%). Put the salted cabbage in a plastic bag, push out all the air, and bang lightly with a rolling pin to somewhat break the structure and get the juices flowing. Start filling clean jar with cabbage, add a layer of chopped garlic and sliced carrot and a small pinch of caraway seeds. Add more cabbage and repeat. Place a small weight on top of the cabbage and cover with a loose fitting lid or pierced cling film, and place somewhere nice and warm, like on top of the fridge. After a day or two, the cabbage should be swimming in it's own liquids. If not, add a small amount of water. After 3.5 days you should see small bubbles. After 7-10 days it should start to smell quite oompfh, this is all good. You might see some white mold growing on top. It's harmless, and can be scraped away when the process is finished. After some additional days, the smell will turn fruity and fresh. Now your cabbage is ready, but if you leave it out for a few more days it will become more sour. Remove the weight, any white mold and put in the fridge. During the next few weeks it will stabilize and get a bit more mellow, although it can also be eaten straight away. Use your imagination and try to ferment any vegetable you like, or a mix of vegetables. I'm going to try with fennel to start with.

5 comments:

  1. You rely on the action of lactic acid bacteria to inhibit unwanted bacterial growth. Have you investigated the possible risk of botulism (clostridium botulinum)? I've really wanted to try this for a long time. Maybe I should?

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  2. Botulism is not a problem since the botulinum bacteria thrive in anaerobic conditions, and this process is fully aerobic. So go ahead, get yourself a billion new pets! :)

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  3. O...M...G... this is so exciting! I'm going to try this immediately. I had no idea that you didn't need a culture of some sort to begin making sauerkraut, but since I succeeded in making my own sourdough from scratch this doesn't seem as unbelievable as it otherwise would have. Thanks for the recipe!

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  4. I was also surprised that you do this without a starter culture! I've never attempted it, but I relly like the taste - fresh, sour and very fragrant!

    I know that in Germany they use clay pots with special weights to press down the cabbage during the first days. They also have a cover with a water lock to vent out any excess pressure. See pictures here:

    http://gesundessen.net/sauerkraut.php
    http://www.tunzel.de/krauttopf.jpg
    http://gertraud.schubert.bei.mucl.de/sauerkraut.htm

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  5. Hej Martin! Thanks for the links. In Germany the starter culture seemingly comes from the feet, hehe ;) Seriously though, the process works absolutely fine without any further invention. I have heard of people using small amounts of sour dough, apple or even yogurt... The weight is essential to keep the cabbage submerged at all times to avoid formation of molds.

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